With upcoming spring summer 2015 in haute couture Giambapttista Valli brings up Impossible Conversations but instead ‘big talk’ between Muccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli, with his new collection, we are witnessing dialogue, or rather attempt to it, between Janis Joplin and Coco Chanel. Sounds a little bit bizarre? Oh well, isn’t high fashion about infinite imagination after all? Valli has presented short jacket a la Chanel and dresses over pants that could be taken right from Joplin closet. Except for these two motives there was also an essence of overpowering spring with 3-D flower prints and light pastel colours. Of course iconic, heavy taffeta dresses, almost princess – like composed with enormous fur capes. In other words, spring summer season brings everything we love about this designer a little bit of camp and abstraction.
New designer, new name, new place and fresh ideas. This in shortcut could be a review of Margiela’s spring sumer 2015 haute couture show. John Galliano, now creative director of this fashion house, has mixed brand’s classics – minimalism, masculine cuts, deconstruction, and feature looking designs, with his own ideas of fashion. He is known from his adornment for history and in this show his is gaining from XIX century novels, what can be seen in great, big Victorian coats. There was also some touch of romanticism. With his first high fashion collection for Margiela this year, he has proven his comeback and that it is far from over for him.
It is definitely about romance with this year haute couture Valentino collection. Quotes from Shakespeare and Dante’s Inferno stitched on ball gowns and Chagall’s all about love paintings. Moreover, painter’s Russian ancestors provided Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, brand’s creative directors, with leitmotivs for last week show. There were flowers broidered on long, linen coats or on smocked shirts. But one could also see Valentino’s icons – simple, heavy dresses, sometimes made from velvet sometimes from silk, and right now we can say that the one that has opened the show, black with a butterfly – like bodice would be most likely a bestseller equally with red velvet classics. It was a beautifully tailored collection, very romantic but not at all cliché. “In some ways, you are flying when you are in love” Chiuri said and he was right. This show was full on love, the one every girl would love to have in her closet.
Viktor & Rolf
We were not exactly sure if it was haute couture or just a presentation of art itself, but one thing is certain: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are taking tailoring and prints to the limits this year. It was like observing the blossom of spring. Each dress cut exactly the same in the A-shape was presenting more colors. Just like spring and summer are doing with nature every season. Designers used special technique in coloration called batik. To do that they arranged collaboration with Vlisco company, which has been specializing in that technique since 1846. 3 pieces from the collection were bought straight after the show to become a part of upcoming exhibition in Rotterdam’s museum. If that’s not art, what is?
It is all about Raf Simmon’s understanding of Dior this summer. He takes us for a journey through decades. One can see the inspiration from 50’s – wide spread dresses – 60’s – almost psychedelic prints and sharp, strong colors – 70’s – wildness of shapes. But open about his inspiration Simmon spoke up about his David Bowie fascination. Just like a singer but also a fashion icon, designer with this year Dior couture collection showed us a feature seen from the past. “My first Couture shows were exercises in understanding the history. The more you understand, the more you see what it can become” he said, and he was gaining from the history in the most sophisticated way mixing it with modernity. We saw light, made out of strips of ribbon skirts and dresses or a sequin 70s like jumpsuit all of that mixed with modern plastic. But what made this work a masterpiece of haute couture was precision and Simmon’s understanding how fashion can reinvent itself.
Very much like Dior, Karl Lagerfeld showed us different world with this haute couture season for Chanel. It took six months to grow all the flowers, that decorated the show and because we had a chance to see the idea of the feature people could have in the past, we witnessed the mixture of modernity and history. Also reinvented classics. There were Edwardian hats along side with ‘hit of the street’ – beanie, after that crop tops made out of iconic bucle jackets. It was eruption of colors, nothing delicate, rather sharp and fresh. We had a chance to see how Lagerfeld basing on brand’s history can make her always seem new and extraordinary. That was a pure genius. During the show we found ourselves in the feature in which nature is elite and people are suffering its deficit. This idea appeared in almost armor – like armlets or in the wedding dress that crown the collection, which was made entirely out of white flowers.
It was a really personal show. Lebanese designer, Elie Saab, gained inspiration from homeland Beirut. He focused on 60s, which he called city’s ‘golden age’ sequins, parties, carefree spirits they were all in he’s newest spring summer 2015 collection. But there are also tulips from his mother summer dress; they give some freshness to the consistency of the gowns he shows every year. Short, tulle, A-line dresses and rather unexpected glam – almost jumpsuit brought some relaxation. But the thing we are all seeking in every Saab’s collection, which is princess like dresses were present, and for that every woman loves him.
10th anniversary of Armani couture collection suggest we should look at the past. And what we know for certain is that Armani is forever. He is one of those designers that always find his way around the industry. Guess it is not going to be to strong suggestion to make that he can read the fashion world as an open book. He was always strongly connected to Asia. This year it is all about bamboo, which is both strong and delicate, just like his collection. Mixture of textiles, from silk to organza. Palette of colors was also kept in bamboo shades. We saw green, yellowish white, light cream. Also silhouettes brought up the idea of Japan. Long simple skirts with belts and plissés combined with oversized silk jacket printed with handmade paintings of bamboos.
We are going back to being women. This season collection for spring summer 2015 by Atelier Versace is all about femininity. There were marvelous shoulder – dropped suits, asymmetric neckline jumpsuits and of course ball gowns with an enormous one-leg exposure. Kept in shades of strong red, black, white and royal blue will most likely hit the upcoming ceremonies. It was a graceful celebration of woman body; how Donatella Versace has put it she wanted to “go back to the shape of a woman's body, which is curvy." What can we say? Challenge was completed.